PHOTOSHOOT LOCATIONS

Today I went on the search for a location for my 80's inspired photoshoot. I had an idea that I wanted to do it against a decaying/derelict wall; as the design of my jacket is quite 'regal', I wanted to photograph it in the complete opposite setting to where you would expect it to be seen. I ended up making tight leather pants and the pink blouse for the same reason. The 80's was full of various different fashion trends, I wanted my final outfit to be completely mix-matched, but when worn the pieces (as weird as they are together) would still look like they belong as part of the ensemble. 

The search for a grotty wall. 

I walked around the bottom end of Leeds in search for a lovely decayed wall, by the canal. I wish I knew street names, but i'm just no good with places! I think a few of the locations looked quite 'decayed' or even just textured, but they're all pretty boring really. They would be good for a photoshoot if you are just wanting standard profile photos, but I think i'm wanting somewhere my model can actually react to the scenery or 'props', not just a couple of Coke cans and a soggy takeaway box. I'm doing my photoshoot tomorrow morning so i'll hopefully find somewhere perfect. 

Check out my Pinterest for my inspiration. 

FLORAL BLAZER

The main garment i decided to make was a 'powerdressing' inspired blazer. I chose a vintage floral fabric that i found in a charity shop and faux leather for the collar. I'm really pleased with it, the blazer took so long to make but it is pretty good quality, especially as it was my first time making a jacket. I also made a pair of faux leather pants and a pink floral blouse to go with the jacket. 

I hope you like it!

Check out my Pinterest for my inspiration.

MAKING THE BLAZER

Although my model is a size 6/8 i decided to make a toile to make sure i made my final garment the correct size. I made my toile a size 12 as i wanted my garment to be a little over-sized, but it was just way too big, even for my mannequin. I decided from that to make a size 8, it was over-sized in the right areas, as well as being fitted. 

Main body almost completed, now for the tricky part.

I used interfacing for the lapels and the collar to keep them rigid.

I wasn't completely sure about what fabric to use for the collar, i compared black pvc, black cotton and suede, I went for faux leather. I thought it made the blazer look more expensive and it reminded me of a horse riding jacket.

 I was just going to make the blazer and style it with clothing from my wardrobe (i have a lot of 80s clothes in my collection). But i decided that as i had time, i might as well make as much as i could. I made a pair of faux leather trousers to contrast with the floral blazer. Surprisingly they were quite easy to make! I didn't have a pattern drawn up for the pants as they were so last minute, so i made straight-legged pants and would take them in according to fitting them to my model. I kept fitting and sewing them until i got the right shape. I also created a pink patterned blouse that tied at the bottom. I found the fabric in a charity shop from a long skirt, as well as the floral fabric for the blazer coming from some vintage curtains. Pretty sustainable.

Check out my Pinterest for my inspiration.

DESIGN IDEAS

These are just a few of my designs for my 80s inspired outfit, i already kind of knew what i wanted for my final piece. I thought i would make a version of a suit from the trend of 'powerdressing' as it was probably the most iconic of the decade. 

These are some of my development ideas for the suit. I have been looking at whether i want the same fabric from the blazer to match the pant or have my model wearing stone-washed denim or even leather. 

Check out my Pinterest for my inspiration. 

JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER

(Jean-Paul Gaultier and Madonna)

Jean-Paul Gaultier is a French haute couture and Pret-a-Porter fashion designer. Gaultier rejected the normal aesthetic and earned himself the name "the bad boy of fashion", he was the first to organise random castings and celebrate upside-down dress. In keeping with his spirit of challenging traditional fashion for both men and women, androgyny began to appear as a recurring theme throughout his collections in the 1980s.

(Regine Chopinot commissioned Jean Paul Gaultier to create the costumes for the 1985 ballet "Le Défilé" and then choreographed around them)

Gaultier never received formal training to be a designer, instead he sent sketches to famous couture stylists from an early age. In 1970 he was hired to as Pierre Cardin's assistant after being impressed by his talent. Gaultier's first individual collection was released in 1976 under his own couture house, success was not immediate but his unusual taste and style was noticed. In 1978 after his 'Grease' collection Jean-Paul Gaultier was ready to throw in towel from lack of finance. However the head of The Bus Stop boutique in paris, Dominique Emschwiller, and Yoshio Nakamoto from Kashiyama, commissioned him to create a clothing line. This was a success and Gaultier officially launched Jean Paul Gaultier SA three years later.

(Jean-Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week A/W 11/12)

Jean-Paul Gaultier created a media splash in 1984 when he created men's skirts for his 'God Created Man' collection. Androgyny became a recurring theme in his work. Although most people found his designs decadent at the time, fashion editors Melka Tréanton of Elle, Claude Brouet and Catherine Lardeur of French Marie Claire, immediately noticed his mastery of tailoring and were seduced by his creativity.



In 1988 Gaultier released a dance song titled "How To Do That" featuring many of his fashion pieces.

(Madonna performing on her Blond Ambition tour)

(Madonna wearing Jean-Paul Gaultier on her Blond Ambition Tour, 1990)

Gaultier is well know for the costumes he had designed and produced for Madonna, especially her infamous cone bra for her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour, as well as the wardrobe for her 2006 Confessions Tour.  

(Velvet D'Amour modelling for Jean-Paul Gaultier)

Gaultier has caused shock by using unconventional models for his exhibitions, including full-figured women, older men, heavily pierced and tattooed models and switching the gender roles in his shows. This has earned him both criticism and popularity.

 (Mylène Farmer wearing Jean-Paul Gaultier, 2011)

(Mylène Farmer's costume by Gaultier for her 2009 tour)

Gaultier has also designed costumes for Marilyn Manson, including the outfits for Manson's 'Golden Age of Grotesque' album. The costumes he designed for singer Mylène Farmer has gained mcuh attention. He has designed costume's for Kylie Minogue's Kyliex2008 tour, as well as Hong Kong singer Leslie Cheung.

(A/W 12/13 collection) 

(Jean-Paul Gaultier's Red Satin Cage dress)

(A/W 09/10 Haute couture collection)

(S/S 11 Collection Haute Couture)

Gaultier uses similar silhouettes in his work, accentuating the female's hips and bust. He is renowned for his corset aesthetic and cut-out work. Resembling fetish wear, Jean-Paul Gaultier is an extremely creative designer who pushes boundaries and is one of my favourite designers. 

WEEK IN PHOTOS

I'm 20!, Presents, Gifts from Dylan, Pumpkin, Adventure time by Dylan, I won vintage goodies!, Krispy Kreme, I have watched Sleepover 4 times today while Dylan was off out Skateboarding, Designing outfits, Pancake day!, Froth and Fodder, Me and Dylan, Snow day, He's so romantic, A trip to Leeds Museum, Dylan thinks he's hilarious, Animal skulls, Primos gourmet hotdogs, Valentines Day meal, Ice Skating at Millennium Square, Ribshakk platter. 

 

KANSAI YAMAMOTO

(Kansai Yamamoto fitting David Bowie's Space Samurai suit)

Kansai Yamamoto is one of the leaders in Japanese Contemporary fashion, he was particularly popular during the 1970s and 1980s. In 1971 he started his own company, Yamamoto Kansai Ltd, in Toyko, and was the first Japanese fashion designer to hold a collection show in London, as well as debuting in the USA at Hess's Department store in Allentown, Pennsylvania, which was renowned at the time for many avant-garde collections.  His London debut brought him an international spotlight and long friendships with artists like Sir, Elton John, David Bowie and Stevie Wonder. 

(Vietnamese children wearing Yamamoto-designed turtle outfits for a reenactment of the Vietnamese Hoan Kiem lake turtle folktale)

He is known for his avant-guarde fashion designs, winning overwhelming popularity among the trend sensitive population around the world. Kansai launched "Boutique Kansai" in major cities around the world including Paris, Milan, New York, Madrid and London. 

(David Bowie wearing 'Rites of Spring' costume 1973)

"He has an unusual face, don't you think?  He's neither man nor woman.  If you see what I mean; which suited me as a designer because most of my clothes are for either sex.  I love his music and obviously that has influenced my designs but most of all there's this aura of fantasy that surrounds him. He has flair." - Kansai Yamamoto (June 1973)

"Now of course he's an international designer, but he was very experimental at that time - his stuff was way off the board.   So the very first things were influenced by him, and then I got to know him, and he made all the stuff you really know - the suits, the pull-apart stuff, all those things.   He said, "Oh, this band are weird - tee-hee-hee - they wear my clothes" - Bowie (1987)

(David Bowie wearing knitted body suit) 

Bowie purchased the "Woodlands Animal Costume" form Kansai's London boutique to wear for his Rainbow Concert in August 1972. After viewing one of Yamamoto's rock-fashion shows Bowie reportedly loved the costumes which were a combination of sci-fi and classical Kabuki theatre. Bowie and Kansai later met in New York where he gifted Bowie two costumes for his second US tour. Kansai Yamamoto was then commissioned to create nine more costumes based on Japanese Noh dramas. These were the flamboyant androgynous Ziggy Stardust costumes Bowie's wore on his third US tour in 1973. 

(Caroline Coon modelling Yamamoto's famous Cape with matching Wool Jumpsuit, from 1971) 

(Kansai Yamamoto Intarsia Sweater and printed tunic)

Yamamoto uses heavy graphic imagery in his work and bright colours, taking inspiration from traditional Japanese fashion to create something new and modern. 

(Yamamoto by Clive Arrowsmith)

(Julie Roche modelling Kansai Yamamoto)

 (Yamamoto Platforms)

Kansai Yamamoto continues to put on spectacular shows including "Hello! Russia", "Hello! Vietnam", "Hello! India" and "Hello! Japan", drawing in crowds of over 120,000 per event. He continues to be involved in various activities in a variety of fields. Winning any awards including "Fashion editors club award", "Jury's Special award - The 7th Japan Event award", Overseas advisor to "Russia International Human Aid Foundation", "International Cultural Award - The 21st Native Wardrobe Culture Distinguished Services", "the 3rd Ku/Kan award" among many others.